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Pyrenees
2018 Two years after we climbed the big Alps, we decided to visit the Pyrenees. The choice was obvious. Here, Greg LeMond wrote history in the books of cycling during the late 80’s. Superbagnères, Tourmalet and Luz Ardiden were a priority. They were marked in red on our bucket list.
Full of expectations, we left
by car on July 21
from Paris to Saint-Lizier, a small village at the bottom of the
Pyrenees where
we could stay in a country house of Nicolas’s family. In the car Edwin,
who had
just landed by plane from Toronto, Nicolas, the guide of the adventure,
and I
who had already traveled 400 kilometers by
car to Paris. It didn’t take long
before some of us ended up in
dreamland. After a more than 8 hours of driving
we finally arrived at our destination. We were too tired to go for a
ride and
we decided to do some groceries in the nearby supermarket. That same evening Edwin showed
his cooking
skills. He had promised us to make Canadian burgers. With 2 cameras on
his face,
he made one patty after another.
A
schedule was prepared for the coming days. And it looked promising but
also
hard. Five days of cycling in the mountains and in the meantime
visiting the
Tour. That was the plan. July 22. After a good breakfast
we decided to
start our first trip of the week. A warming up. With the Col de Portet
d’Aspet,
a ride of 60 kilometers was waiting for us. Perfect conditions. Soon
the clouds
were replaced by the sun and it started to get warm. On the Col de
Portet
d’Aspet we noticed how many campers were already parked alongside the
road. The
Tour would only pass here in 3 days, but these people were already
waiting for
the race in the middle of nowhere. During the descent we stopped at the
Fabio
Casartelli memorial. The silence was striking. We took some photos and
drove
quietly further down to the valley. It soon became clear that the
planned ride of
60 km would become more. The road kept going up and down and on top of
the Col
de Larrieu we came to the conclusion that we were not home yet. After
more than
4 hours of cycling and 90 kilometers further we finally arrived at our
destination. This was more than just a warm-up. July 23. We were not tired yet,
but somehow we
were. A 90-kilometer car ride to Bagnères de Luchon was scheduled and
getting
up early was the deal. When we arrived Nicolas’
brother Eric was waiting for
us. Today we would do the climb to Superbagnères. The road that led to
Greg’s victory
in 1986, but allowed Fignon riding away from him in 1989. It was hot.
Eric took
care of the photos and videos along the climb and had no problem
passing us
again to make the next one. "The Hampsten July 24. This week we would not
come any higher
than today. With the Tourmalet on the program we would reach the roof
of our
cycling week. With its 2115m height and 17
kilometer length this was a true
test. Once again there was The sun gradually disappeared
and dark clouds
threatened behind the flanks of the Pic du Midi. We were going to
descend quickly
and decide below whether we would still climb the Col d’Aspin. The
descent was
a dream. Long stretches and occasionally a hairpin. We reached
staggering
speeds and stopped for a photo now and then. Once back in Sainte-Marie
de
Campan Edwin and I decided to climb the Col d’Aspin. Nicolas had too
much
trouble with his back and would follow us in the car to take pictures. The climb to the top of the Col
d’Aspin started
fairly easily. Not too steep and Edwin and I stayed together. But once
we
reached the forest, it became steeper. Much steeper. Edwin drove away
and my
back and legs told me not to follow him. Along the way a nasty
supporter in GLF
equipment ran next to me. For a moment it felt how it would be in the
Tour. You
are broken, everything hurts and people roar and scream in your ears. I
was
finished at the top. And Edwin also seemed seriously exhausted. The
descent to
Arreau looked dark. A serious thunderstorm was not too far away, but
Edwin and
I left by bike. It didn’t take long before the first raindrops fell.
Nicolas was
right behind us with his car and when it started pouring rain and it
became too
dangerous, we stopped and got soaking wet into the car. Like riders
abandoning
the race in the Tour de France. "Il pleut" (“It's raining”), Edwin
shouted in his best French. Everyone laughed and we decided to eat
something in
Arreau. Back in Saint-Lizier, Albert
joined us from
Spain. He would spend the last 3 days with the 4 of us. GLF was finally
complete and we went to Saint Girons for dinner. After an evening walk
we all
crawled into our bed with a sore back. July 25. The Tour de France
passed the flanks
of Val Louron today. The climb where LeMond lost a lot of time on it The Tour caravan passed and we
got some fresh water.
I was looking forward to a green Skoda cap and not much later it fell
right in
front of me. Yes. Albert and Nicolas also picked up the gadgets while
Edwin
enjoyed the caravan and took photos. Our plan was to show our GLF
flag when the
riders would pass us and appear on television. We now saw the riders
descending
on the other side on the Col de Peyresourde. It didn’t take long before
they
were at the foot of Val Louron. The tension rose. The leading group was
coming.
We raised our flag, while the group with, among others, king of the
mountain
Alaphilippe passed us. Soon we received a message from home that we
were
spotted on television. Mission accomplished. The rest of a crumbled peloton
passed. Some of them looked as corpses on the bike.
Total loss after almost 3
weeks of racing.
July 26. Albert left early for
the Tourmalet.
He had to control this beast. This was one of his goals for this week.
The rest
of the club decided to make it a day of rest. This rest was more than
welcome.
We lay down on the loungers in the
garden and slowly closed our eyes. Albert returned from the
Tourmalet in the late
afternoon. He also had suffered and told us about his heroic deed. Not much
later, the others decided to go for a short ride. This was for me
personally
the most relaxing moment of the week. We drove along the flanks of the
valley
on the hilly roads and under a wonderfully colored evening sky. We
stopped and had
a chat with some locals and enjoyed the view. A moment to cherish. July 27. The last day of our
week. The final
destination was situated at the Luz Ardiden summit. Here LeMond rode to
his 3rd
Tour victory and he could have even won the Tour in 1985. After a long
drive of
160 kilometers we finally arrived in Luz Saint Sauveur. Suddenly we
heard
cursing words. Nicolas was shouting aloud in French. Not much later it
became
clear why. Our friend had forgotten his backpack at home with his
helmet,
cycling shoes, windstopper, food, etc. Climbing on sneakers it was.
July 28. Saying goodbye hurts. This was a fantastic week. The pilgrimage was over. After a week in the mountains, we all felt that our friendship had become stronger and we became closer. Albert left first and drove on towards Spain. The rest drove together to Paris, where we finally split up. Thank you guys for this amazing experience. Watch the 6 video episodes of our "Fools on the hills" pilgrimage here. |
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